Introduction to Pearls
The magical luster of pearls has fascinated women and men alike for thousands of years. Pearls conjure up visions of tropical South Sea islands and beautiful waters. Where pearls were first discovered is unknown. Bits of irritating debris, perhaps a grain of sand, causes oysters to transform them, layer by layer, into objects of great beauty, prized throughout history.

We know pearl divers risked their lives to bring these treasures to the surface. The Middle East, India and China are thought to be among the earliest civilizations recognizing the attraction of pearls. The finest of all pearls come from the Persian Gulf. The Chinese believed pearls poured from the mouth of their rain god. The Romans used pearls in love potions. Caesar may have invaded Britain for pearls.

How are Natural Pearls Created
Natural pearls occur when an oyster seeks to protect itself from a tiny intruder that gets inside its shell. Intruders in the form of sand or pieces of shell are layered over with nacre. Nacre, a secretion of mother-of-pearl, builds up over time to form a spherical pearl. The luster created by the accumulation of nacre is highly prized and an essential quality of fine, natural pearls. Natural pearl-bearing oysters live along coasts at a depth of 50 feet. The Persian Gulf has yielded some of the most lustrous pearls since antiquity. They are renowned for their red and creamy white sheen. Smaller, seed pearls - mainly pinky red and soft yellow - are found in beds in the Gulf of Manaar, between India and Sri Lanka.

A tour of other natural pearl beds leads to the waters off Japan, the South Pacific Islands off northern Australia and the Gulf of California. The coasts of Panama and Venezuela, in the Caribbean Sea, are also rich birthplaces of natural pearls. Fishing for natural pearls has declined, as cultured pearls have grown to account for some 90 percent of the pearl trade.

How are Cultures Pearls Created
Cultured pearls are cultivated by inserting a mother of pearl bead inside the oyster. In response, the oyster deposits the pearlescent nacre around the bead. When the process begins with man's help, the intruding bead is typically much larger than a grain of sand. Creating a cultured pearl takes much less time than for a natural pearl, but three years is typical. Cultured pearls require only a single layer of nacre to develop an attractive luster. Japanese and Australian coastal waters are the main sources of cultured pearls. Careful cultivation produces pearls of fine color and iridescent luster. Non-round, irregularly shaped pearls have grown in favor with pearl lovers and jewelry designers alike. The largest of all cultured pearls thrives in the warm coastal seas of the Indian and Pacific oceans. Called South Sea pearls, they come in many colors, from various whites and white pinks, through golds to blue gray.

Different Pearl Types
Black pearls, a stunning accent to eveningwear, begin life in the languid waters off the island of Tahiti. Light gray to charcoal, Tahitian pearls are valued for their size and dark sensual hues. Large Tahitian pearls rank among the rarest. Their singular shapes challenge the jeweler's art to match pearls for earrings and necklaces. The classical beauty of Tahiti's black pearls fits romantic and professional settings equally well.

Akoya - pearls are named for the Japanese oyster cultivated to produce classically round cultured pearls.
Baroque - varieties, which come in both natural and cultured versions, are prized for their irregular shapes.
Biwa - refers to freshwater pearls grown in Lake Biwa in Japan. Rarely perfectly round, they may be oval-like or baroque.
Blister - pearls are natural half pearls. Their flat sides make them ideal for mounting in a bezel.
Double pearls - are two or more pearls united by birth. Though joined, each pearl retains its distinctive shape.
Drop versions - are shaped like drawn-out water drops, globular at the bottom and tapering to a point at the opposite end.
Dust pearls - are tiny seed pearls, pierced and strung as necklaces.
Half pearl - owing to imperfections, begin life whole, but are sawed in two and mounted like Blister pearls.
Mabe - is often a South Sea pearl, cultivated for its large size and mounted with a bezel. Pronounced "mah-bee".
Oriental pearls - natural salt-water pearls so named before the advent of cultured pearls, come mainly from Oriental waters.
Paragon - or master, pearls are superior in shape, size, color and luster. They are exceptionally large and round.

How to Choose a Pearl Necklace
Depending on the occasion, your stature and what you wear, here's what you need to know in choosing a pearl necklace:

Collar (12-13 inches) : Three or more strands hugging the middle of your neck. Creates a more formal, elegant impression. The ideal complement to v-neck and off-the-shoulder styling.
Choker (14-16 inches) : A single strand circling the base of your neck, just above the collarbone. Classic simplicity that goes with everything. Perfect for all styles and occasions.
Princess (18 inches) : Versatile accent highlights a variety of fashions. Enhances the formality of crew and high necklines. A stunning counterpoint to plunging necklines.
Matinee (20-24 inches) : Catches the top of your cleavage. As its name implies, a style you can wear to an afternoon at the theater. But also to a business meeting.
Opera (28-34 inches) : Signals style and confidence. Ever so chic with turtlenecks. Or, for an entirely different look, create your own double choker.
Rope (45 inches or more) : Think of it more as a glamorous pearl lariat, capturing both your sexy and elegant moods. For day or night, under an open jacket or dangling from a high neckline.
Size: This is usually the most critical factor in determining value. Large natural pearls are worth more than similarly sized cultured pearls. Because natural pearl fishing has declined, large natural varieties are rarer. Natural pearls also contain more nacre than cultured pearls of the same size. Thus, they will be priced more.

Caring for Pearls
Like any jewelry of value, pearls require proper care to keep them looking good. Pearls may not feel that way, but their surfaces are soft. They are sensitive to dramatic changes in temperature. They are also affected by acids, cosmetics, perspiration and hair spray.
Never use abrasives or solvents to clean pearls. Cleaning products with ammonia should be avoided.
Steam cleaning or using an ultrasonic cleaner can damage pearls. Do not use anything that could scratch the surface, including toothbrushes.Using a mild liquid soap, you can wash pearls in water with a soft cloth.
To dry, spread them on a moist towel. When both are dry, the pearls should be ready to wear. Wearing a necklace that is still moist will stretch the string.